Книга: Ruth Reichl «Garlic and Sapphires»

Ruth Reichl

Ruth Reichl (born January 16 1948 in New York City) was an American food writer, the editor-in-chief of "Gourmet" magazine, co-producer of PBS's "Gourmet's Diary of a Foodie", and culinary editor for the Modern Library. She has written three critically acclaimed, best-selling books of memoirs: "Tender at the Bone: Growing Up at the Table", "Comfort Me with Apples: More Adventures at the Table", and "Garlic and Sapphires: The Secret Life of a Critic in Disguise".

Born to parents Ernst and Miriam ("née" Brudno), Reichl was raised in Grenwich Village in New York City and spent time at a boarding school in Montreal as a young girl. She attended the University of Michigan, where she met her first husband, the artist Douglas Hollis. he graduated in 1970 with a M.A. in Art History.

She and Hollis moved to Berkeley, California, where her interest in food led to her joining the collectively-owned Swallow Restaurant as a chef/co-owner from 1973 to 1977, and where she played an important role in the culinary revolution taking place at the time. Reichl began her food-writing career with "Mmmmm: A Feastiary," a cookbook, in 1972. She moved on to become food writer and editor of "New West" magazine from 1973 to 1977, then to the "Los Angeles Times" as its restaurant editor from 1984 to 1993 and food editor and critic from 1990 to 1993. She returned to her native New York City in 1993 to become the restaurant critic for the "New York Times" before leaving to assume the editorship of "Gourmet" in 1999.

She is known for her ability to "make or break" a restaurant with her fierce attention to detail and her adventurous spirit. For Reichl, her mission has been to "demystify the world of fine cuisine" (CBS News Online). She has won acclaim both with readers and writers alike for her honesty of some of the not-so-fabulous aspects of haute-couture cuisine. Though an outsider's perspective, she harshly criticized the sexism prevalent toward women in dine-out experiences, as well as the pretentious nature of the ritziest New York restaurants and restauranteurs alike.

Despite her widely-celebrated success, and hilarious tales of how she used to disguise herself to mask her identity while reviewing, she is quite open about why she stopped. "I really wanted to go home and cook for my family," she says. "I don't think there's one thing more important you can do for your kids than have family dinner" (CBS News Online).

She has been the recipient of four James Beard Awards, in 1996 and 1998 for restaurant criticism, one in 1994 for journalism and in 1984 for Who´s Who of Food and Beverage in America; as well as several awards granted by the Association of American Food Journalists. She was also the recipient of the YWCA´s Elizabeth Cutter Morrow Award, celebrating the accomplishments of strong, successful women. Reichl served as host for three Food Network Specials titled "Eating Out Loud" which covered cuisine from each coast and corner of the United States, in New York in 2002, and Miami and San Francisco in 2003. She is also frequents Leonard Lopate's monthly food radio show on WNYC in New York.

Reichl's best-selling memoirs detail the personal experiences, good and bad, that came together to support her "foodie" education.

The desire for individuality saturates the best-selling food memoir, Tender at the Bone. Reichl constantly struggles with her identity and lack of self-confidence. Due to her codependent relationships and unstable family life, Reichl longs to define herself outside of the boundaries others have set for her. Though she often struggles to stand on her own, her relationship with food and with several key figures in the memoir helps to mold her into the woman she is today.

During her time spent in Berkeley, a real transformation can be seen in Ruth’s relationship with food. Nick’s insistence for local and homegrown ingredients and recipes limits Ruth in the kitchen. While using all-purpose flour, white bread and coffee never presented a problem before, Ruth now must battle Nick for small baking luxuries, things as simple as sugar. Living in the make-shift commune also leaves Ruth as one of the main cooks for a large group of people. She is forced to use innovation to make dishes that will please the hungry as well as the environmentally aware. A sense of independence can be recognized as Ruth reveals her recipe for Con Queso Rice. Ruth is finally taking matters of life into her own hands and finding she can be successful on her own.

Food memories are obviously central to Reichl’s progress as both a food critic and as a person. In many ways, her experiences with food change her perspective of life. While living in Berkeley, Reichl becomes emerged in the local-food movement which stemmed from both the Environmentalist Movement and the Anti-Science Movement of the 1960s. These school’s of thought encouraged consumers to conserve resources in efforts to salvage the deteriorating environment. They also suggested that technological advancements in science widened the gap between man and nature. (University of Wisconsin Green Bay) The 70s were ripe for political change especially in regards to the environment. In 1970, the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) was formed to help control the ever-growing pollution issue and to outline a set of environmental quality standards (Encarta).

Finally, Marion Cunningham serves as a perfect role-model of the woman Ruth wishes to become. Marion represents yet another person in Ruth’s life who hasn’t had it easy. Her battle with alcoholism hindered her for much of her life but she eventually took back the reins and “reinvented herself in middle age,” (Reichl 272). This idea draws Ruth to Marion because she so desperately wants to free herself from self-doubt and self-ridicule and love herself for who she is. Marion exudes confidence and doesn’t seem to be effected by what other people think of her—her opinion of herself, alone, is what matters. By introducing Ruth to her friend Cecilia and her exotic cuisine and story, Marion challenges Ruth not to be afraid to take risks in life. She also exhibits that it is never too late to take back control of your life and decide who you are, or what you want to be.

What the beginning and middle of the book show as an unhappy codependent, the end of the memoir finds Ruth Reichl a strong woman. She has overcome the hardships, symbolized by the bridge, and left those things in her past. She is starting out on a new path with the utmost confidence. She is planted firmly, standing for the first time on her own two feet. She is, literally, at the steering wheel, in control, and fully able to maneuver through the changes life throws at her.

Books

*"Mmmmm: A Feastiary" (cookbook), (1972)
*"Tender at the Bone: Growing Up at the Table" (1998)
*"Comfort Me with Apples: More Adventures at the Table" (2001)
*"Garlic and Sapphires: The Secret Life of a Critic in Disguise" (2005)

External links

* [http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showforum=220 An eG Spotlight with Ruth Reichl (December 2005)]
* [http://www.princeton.edu/WebMedia/lectures Princeton Public Lecture Series Appearance (streaming media) - March 6, 2007 - "Watch What You Eat-A History of Eating" ]
* [http://www.salon.com/nov96/interview961118.html Salon interview (November 1996)]
* [http://www.ruthreichl.com/ ruthreichl.com]
* [http://www.gourmet.com/diaryofafoodie/ PBS Gourmet's Diary of a Foodie]
* [http://www.cbsnews.com/stories/2005/05/18/earlyshow/leisure/books/main696162.shtml CBS Article and interview - May 18, 2005 - "Garlic and Sapphires"]
* [http://www.cbsnews.com/stories/2005/05/18/earlyshow/leisure/books/main696162.shtml New York Times Chapter 1 excerpt - April 10, 2005 - "Garlic and Sapphires"]
* [http://www.reviewsofbooks.com/garlic_and_sapphires/ ReviewsOfBooks.com - "Garlic and Sapphires"]

Источник: Ruth Reichl